Be transported to the Great Wall
Friday, September 19th, 2008Four years ago, thirteen faculty members decided to hold a Colloquium, supported by Liberal Arts and CTLE, to address the iconic Parthenon from a variety of perspectives. The program would follow the Summer Olympics in Athens, and the start of USI’s new International Studies major. Carter Hall was the only venue open for that day, though we didn’t expect more than a few faculty and students to attend. To our great surprise, Carter Hall filled all day, with a total attendance of about 2,500 students. The next year the Ram in the Thicket also drew a large crowd, then the Day of the Dead and The Gothic Imagination, which coincided with the opening of the Labyrinth on the Quad.
When we planned the Great Wall Colloquium, which will be held on September 26, I had no idea that it would coincide with the Olympics in China. This summer David Glassman, Xinran Hu, Katie Waters, Matthew Graham and Joan Kempf de Jong went to the Great Wall in China. You will see spectacular photos by Xinran, Katie and Joan, and hear poems by Matthew about the Wall at the Colloquium.
Following a conference at the University of Leeds, I went to Hadrian’s Wall. I had planned to walk the length of it, gathering information about Roman and British religion. Eighty miles isn’t that long, I thought. A native of Los Angeles, where a commute of that distance is not unheard of, I imagined an eighty mile long sidewalk with convenient detours into museums and cafes, and that six days would more than suffice.
First of all, I didn’t have the right stuff. Apparently jeans and Pumas just get soggier when you’re stumbling on the steep, slippery slopes of the Whin Sill in constant rain and wind, or crouching under the ruined Wall. I needed different clothes, hiking boots, walking sticks, a compass and proper maps and the brains to use them. So instead I took the local bus, the 122, named for the year Hadrian started building the Wall, and got dropped off here and there. I was wet, but the changing light on the landscape was stunningly beautiful. At dawn one morning I found the unmarked spring of the British goddess Coventina, whose Roman votive gifts included 16,000 coins, 30 altars, rings, a bronze Scottish terrier and human skulls. Facing north, beyond the Wall, into the bleak blue Scottish lowlands, and the advancing mist, I watched a farmer and his dog round up a flock of sheep. Katie and Matthew sent me to a haunted inn on the Wall, where I met John Gibson and Leslie Roberts, who had come up from their cottage in Suffolk. We didn’t see any ghosts, if such a thing can be seen, but the place felt haunted by Roman soldiers, and by the Brigantes whose families were divided by the Wall.
Wandering along the Wall I didn’t meet a single person with an umbrella, but I met people from all over the world who were spending a week away from their normal lives to be transported there and back again, with greater understanding of people so remote, and so like us, who were also far from home. Next week your colleagues will transport you to Great Walls and Other Barriers – China, Britain, Mexico, Berlin, and the Iron Curtain. I hope that you will join us then. And to be sure, four years from now, when the Olympics open in London, we will take you there.
POST CONTRIBUTED BY: PATRICIA AAKHUS, director of International Studies.